Trail Running in the Heart of Japan: Kohechi in Totsukawa Village, Nara Pref
Nestled in the heart of Nara Prefecture, Totsukawa Village is renowned for its stunning natural beauty and ancient pilgrimage routes. Among these is the “Kohechi,” a sacred path that forms part of the World Heritage Kumano Kodo and connects the spiritual sites of Mount Koya and the Kumano Sanzan Shrines. I had the unique opportunity to participate in a trail running race along this historic route. It was not only a test of physical endurance but also a deeply spiritual journey.
https://www.vill.totsukawa.lg.jp/traveling_guide/
Journey to Totsukawa Village
Traveling to Totsukawa Village from Osaka City took about five hours by bus. As the landscape gradually shifted from urban to rural, I was struck by the ever-changing, breathtaking scenery. Totsukawa truly felt like a hidden paradise, far from the bustling cities. Upon arrival, I stayed at a local inn where I enjoyed natural hot springs. The water, flowing directly from the source, was simply the best and helped me recover before the race.
Kohechi: A Sacred and Challenging Route
Kohechi is famed for its steep climbs and dramatic landscapes as it cuts through the mountains of the Kii Peninsula. Although shorter than other pilgrimage routes, its continuous ascents and descents make it one of the most challenging paths. This trail, with its rugged terrain and spiritual significance, provides the perfect setting for trail runners seeking a true challenge.
Kohechi runs through remote mountains, and the area is known for frequent bear sightings. The atmosphere during the race was tense, as I couldn’t shake the feeling that a bear might appear at any moment, adding an extra layer of excitement and caution to the run.
Stunning Views from Mount Obako
One of the highlights of the course was the panoramic view from Mount Obako. From the summit, I was treated to a stunning 360-degree vista of the surrounding mountains, an awe-inspiring reward after the tough climb. The endless expanse of nature was truly unforgettable.
Race Experience
The trail running race held in Totsukawa Village was a grueling yet rewarding experience. The course spanned 56 km, with a cumulative elevation gain of about 3,800 meters. The rugged terrain, steep climbs, and unpredictable weather made it a mental and physical trial. At times, the path became slippery due to rain, further increasing the challenge. I had to stay focused and navigate the rocky trails and tangled tree roots with great care, but the serenity of the surrounding nature provided constant motivation. The race took me 9 hours and 20 minutes to complete, pushing my limits in every way.
Post-Race Hot Springs
After crossing the finish line, I was able to soak in a natural hot spring again, soothing my tired muscles and recharging my spirit. The hot springs of Totsukawa Village, flowing directly from the source, are among the best I’ve ever experienced. This perfect post-race recovery made me appreciate the unique charm of this region even more. I left with a desire to run the Kohechi trail again and soak in the village’s healing hot springs.
A Culturally Rich Experience
One of the most memorable aspects of the race was its cultural significance. Running along an ancient pilgrimage route added a profound meaning to the experience. Along the course, I passed small shrines, statues of gods, and old stone markers, all reminders of the region’s deep spiritual history. The support from local volunteers and spectators also highlighted the strong connection between the event and the local community, making the race a truly special event.
How to Access Totsukawa Village, Nara Prefecture
Totsukawa Village is nestled deep in the mountains of Nara Prefecture and is known for its pristine nature, hot springs, and historical trails like the Kohechi route. Here’s how you can get there:
Access by Bus from Osaka
Direct Bus: There are direct buses to Totsukawa Village from JR Tennoji Station or Kintetsu Yamatoyagi Station in Osaka. The buses are operated by Nara Kotsu (Nara Transport), and the trip takes about 4 to 5 hours. The bus stops at key spots like Totsukawa Onsen and the village center.
Bus Schedule: Be sure to check the bus schedule ahead of time, as the operation may change depending on the season or weather conditions.
https://www.narakotsu.co.jp/language/en/local/totsukawa.html
Key Considerations:
Limited Public Transportation: Totsukawa Village is quite remote, and public transport options are limited. It’s essential to check bus schedules and driving routes in advance.
Weather and Natural Disruptions: Totsukawa is prone to heavy rainfall and landslides, so it’s important to monitor weather conditions before traveling.
Despite the time it takes to get there, Totsukawa Village offers an unparalleled experience of nature, tranquility, and rejuvenating hot springs, making it well worth the journey.
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